… Problem: Dim lights or lights that seem to fade as the car runs. This can be caused by a short or ground in the rotor field winding within the alternator or a defective regulator. Solution: This is usually caused by an overcharged battery, which is typically the result of high alternator voltage. … Problem: Lights flare excessively as engine speed increases. Use the tests above to determine the problem-battery or alternator. Solution: Slow or labored cranking is often the first sign of an undercharged battery. Problem: Engine cranks over slowly and lights dim excessively during process. Monday Mailbag: Tracking Down Potential Charging System Issues Replace or tighten the cables as necessary.Īsk Away: with Jeff Smith: When and How to Update the Charging System in a Classic Car Solution #3: Check the alternator cables for abnormal wear, including cracking and fraying. If voltage is below 13.5, there’s a good chance the alternator is not keeping up with your battery’s charging needs. The voltmeter should read around 12.6 volts with the engine off and 14-15 volts when the engine is running. Get a good-quality voltmeter or multimeter and test your battery’s state of charge.If the alternator is bad, your car or truck will eventually die out again as the battery is not re-charged. IF it is indeed bad compression, you will have to buy new piston rings and have your cylinders re-honed.or just do a straight up engine swap (which would likely be MUCH easier).If your vehicle is already dead, jumpstart the battery and wait. You also typically want cylinders to be within about 10-15psi of each other. From what I could find the BARE minimum compression for engines in general is 90 psi.but it may be more or less for your engine. Test the compression of each cylinder per the tool instructions and note the compression of each cylinder. To determine if it is bad rings/cylinders, go to a mechanic or go buy a compression tester (maybe Auto-Zone or other auto stores rent them?). Enough blow-by will eventually mean that each stroke is not powerful enough to maintain engine rotation. As the engine heats up the ring-cylinder mate becomes looser so that the engine will run smoother and easier.but if there is too much wear the combustion gases will begin to blow by the ring-cylinder surfaces and will cause each stroke to lose power. While cold, the ring-cylinder mate is tight, keeping the combustion gasses from blowing by and allowing the engine to run. After too much wear (IE if you have defects, overheated the car, neglected oil changes, bad combustion over time etc etc etc) the piston rings and cylinders will not mate and seal properly causing low compression and blow-by. Unfortunately this is TYPICALLY the symptoms of compression loss. The alternator didnt solve low idle issue or the stalling. Currently brand new OEM alternator from Toyota installed. The engine stalling out completely tonight but tomorrow it may run just fine or idle just under 650 RPM. Put water in it but I still have the issue of the motor stalling when warm. But if I keep enough pressure on the throttle it will rev without issue. Will start right back up, because the battery somehow has enough cranking amps. Once warm idles a bit and decreases to 0 RPM. Went from low idling to the idle getting too low to keep the battery charged to the above mentioned issue.
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